I use different grays at base and go,over with satturating drybrush of different metalcolors like chrome, silver and gunmetal. If it comes to create different metal surfaces of an inner frame. For me it feels not natural if it is all shiny like polished chrome.
Next batch of tests. Since I screwed up the first casting I made, I used the test pieces as paint tests for the cans I have. The satin blue tint can i have seems to work well…
If you have an airbrush and can spray lacquer or fume heavy paints then mr.color steel and Alclad steel look nice. Just leave them bare though as even gloss clearcoat can dull their metallic sheen.
Otherwise tamiya gunmetal seems to be the go to spraycan for inner frames for a lot of gunpla modelers.
See that is the challenge here. Where I live here in aruba, we don’t have a hobby shop and there are none of these paints! You even have to import the airbrush yourself. Even if you’re able to import the air brush, you still need find the paints which you can’t import since they are prohibited flammable material.
Have you considered just painting the frame a flat dark grey or black with only specific parts silver or metallic grey (like the inside of certain joints, hydraulics, etc)? That can look great when done right too and the light/dark contrast really makes certain parts “pop”.
Yeah I really want that clear dark and light contrast with frame being gun metal and the armors being flat white and blue. But the frame needs to be metallic since I’m adding a lot of photo-etched parts with varying metals such as copper and silver.
Update time. I tried my hand on resin casting clear parts. It turns out making a mold is not as easy as it seems. I made a few bubbles on the resin and miss aligned cast….
Back to work today. I used some runner parts to make a couple of suspension rods for the neck. I also tried to test fit the Qanta shield with the raiser wings. It turned out…
after seeing this thing assembled, im now thinking of casting out the clear parts. i feel that blue clear parts would go better on this kit. Let’s see if i can find all the materials i need to do that
Here’s a comparison shot for now of the current modifications I’ve done. The left image is taken from Tai Factory. I’m pretty please of the current progress. There are some…
Thanks. I wanted to post more pics but ill wait until i have more of the mods done. Those shoulder pads need some open hatch gimmicks and i need to find a way to mount all the GN drives i have lying around.
This is looking really cool – not a suit that I have on my wishlist but maybe your thread will change my mind, just wondering – what is Tai Factory? A previous custom you like or an original look…I am not familiar with the kit so need to get my head around what it looked like before it was Ronin’d ha
I wanted to enter the beginner category since I have limited experience & is my 1st competition but according to the rules I have to enter in intermediate so with my chances shot right out the gate this is gonna be my entry :-).
Here are the kits that I will be mashing together for the competition!! 😀
MG Unicorn, MG 00 Gundam and FM Barbatos Lupus! 😀 Might throw in a few other parts from my random parts drawer but it will be mostly all from these kits!
I use different grays at base and go,over with satturating drybrush of different metalcolors like chrome, silver and gunmetal. If it comes to create different metal surfaces of an inner frame. For me it feels not natural if it is all shiny like polished chrome.
greys… e.g. a neutral grey covered with gunmetal creates a nice iron, while a ghosttgrey plus chrome gives a nice alloy, and so on.
I like the Crome on the suspension parts but for actual frame parts they need to be a dark metallic coating so I can stay on the qanta theme.