Leonidas_prime

  • I had just gotten stuck into snap building the Plamax 1/350 Cherno Alpha when the announcement came out so I thought I would use it for my entry!
    I haven’t built a Plamax model kit before and so far I’m impressed with the molded detail.
    • I dont think already started kits are eligible

    • I remember there were a few half snapped kits entering last time but I’m not too sure if the line of “started” is drawn at snap fitted or painted/prepped.

      Can we get some rules around half snap fitted models @syd ?

    • that does look good. might have to pick these up. loved the jaegers. best part of the movie hands down

    • The “Basic Rules” on the contest’s page does not mention projects in progress, only that you provide 4 WIP images throughout the contest. However it would be against the spirit of the contest to post a finished build that you already had pictures of that was done before the contest was announced. We should wait on an official ruling before anyone…[Read more]

    • I just finished snap building the Cherno and I must say that it looks great but definitely needs some paint to give it that awesome gritty look from the movie.
      I was lucky enough to pre-order both this and the Gypsy Danger before they went to Order Stop on HLJ but I’m not sure when they’ll do a second run of them :/

    • Yeah there is a bit of a blank space in the rules regarding that, I wouldn’t imagine putting up a previous project is any good but I would like to see an official ruling around models that have been half built or snap fitted but not worked on, especially in the Intermediate and Advanced categories.

      If I can’t end up entering this, even by…[Read more]

    • Ah my Rival 😉

    • I’m snapping my Gipsy together right now for the contest. Lots of things to do for it lots of detail that needs to be painted

  • After a few moths debating, finally got the main colour figured out, now the cleaning, sanding and such can begin. The inner frame is done, added some Builders Parts verniers…

    [Read more]

    • teetee, that frame is looking pretty sweet and the contrast with the gold thrusters makes it even better. Do you prime when you paint the internal frames?
      I also got those verniers from the builders parts. Really like where you placed them. Cant wait to see how the whole build turns out.

    • Thanks! 😀

      I do prime the frame before painting, using Alclad’s primer. As I dry-fit the joints, I see where a layer of paint might get too thick and sand the parts that would rub against each other. This wat moving the joints won’t scratch the paint up. I used a few primers and this is the only way to making sure there will be no paint rubbing…[Read more]

    • looking nice im working on its predecessor as of now the sinanju stein but nothing shiney just major kitbashing n detailing

    • Thank you very much!

  • Rafi posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 6 years, 9 months ago

    Ok, I think I’m in big trouble. Big being the word here. I ordered and got the Neo Zeong off A_Japan on Amazon (not hlj). Should have waited for a restock maybe but it always appears backordered and it takes months for stuff to arrive in Bangladesh… etc. etc.

    So… Came with an old and worn out manual as if it was used a million times, plus a…[Read more]

    • if i remember correctly try heating a bit with hair dryier. But check it first on some other dmged part (for example part of the tree runner)

      • Thx for the advice! I’ve repaired stuff using the hair dryer before, but it seems to only work on softer parts. Neo Zeong plastic is too hard methinks. 🙁

    • can u just return the package on amazon im sure theyll let u

      • Like, I said, a return is possible, but not feasible. I live in Bangladesh. 🙁

        • if its that bad i feel like returning it is a better option u spent so much money to get it torn up especially since neo zeong costs ten arms and legs to get

          • Almost USD100 in taxes every time it comes in, not to mention shipping. Like I said, not feasible. Nothing is broken or missing; no guarantee the next box will have everything. I am looking for ways to reduce/remove/recover stressed plastic, short of painting.

    • Well this might seem abundant, but next time place an order for the tings on backorder regardless. This is also stated on the FAQ on their site…..
      With those big pieces they might only order the amount of kits that they got an order from by costumers. In any case, if you place an order for a kit that is in backorder, you won’t have to pay…[Read more]

      • Yay, you’re here! (^__^)/

        I always wanted to paint the Neo Zeong. Been practicing and brushing up my painting skills as much as possible for the attempt too for months. However, a few days back I saw a contest post on youtube with a Gundam marker set as a prize; there was a disclaimer saying that Gundam markers may damage ABS plastic! That got…[Read more]

        • If the parts are primed, thinning agents won’t effect the plastic. Except for cellulose thinner. That stuff eats trough everything!
          Gundam Markers contain Isopropyl Alcohol (Rubbing Alcohol). The same as used for the solvent in Mr Hobby Aqueous and Tamiya Acrylic paints.
          PE and ABS won’t be effected when exposed to alcohol for a short amount of…[Read more]

          • Hmmm, good to know, thx! 🙂

            Are primers/undercoats universal or do you need different types for different paints? I know I won’t get a lot of options here, so might just end up finding undercoats for furniture or something… Will that do? Q__Q

    • I bougt a Hi Nu from them long ago (Astyle J) and the box was in bad shape, also the manual had the first page torn.

      Products from hlj are always pristine.

      You can retouch some parts with gundam real markers. You can paint ABS (not everything is ABS, is labeled on the spru), use a light coat of tamiya primer (spry can) and any acrylic paint on…[Read more]

      • hlj… y u always backordered… Q__Q

        Will look for what primers are available here. Are there different types for different paints?

        • Tamiya primer spray is lacquer-based, you can apply enamels or acrylics over it (acrylics are easy to use and easy to clean). It dries super fast so it won’t damage the plastic. I have used Krylon primer (spray can) but the coat is thicker and the color is darker (also is plastic friendly). Use white primer for white and grey for other colors.…[Read more]

          • Ty! (^__^)b

            I’ll see what is available in the local stores then. Very limited selection, so I may end up only finding furniture primers/undercoats; will those do as well? 🙁

            • Those may not do. Furniture is mostly wood, leather, steel and/or fabric.
              There are acrylic, enamel and lacquer based primers. From all those, acrylic is the most weak. Some of these might also bring some trouble in application.
              Lacquer based is the strongest.
              You can always put a weak paint on top of a stronger type of paint. There are exceptions…[Read more]

            • @teetee580 , thank you! Very informative, and yeah I’m on brushes. Unless there is some kind of manual action airbrushing kit, relying on airbrush is hard here as we have a lot of power outages for lengthy periods of time. 🙁

              I am watching some tutorials and thanks for the recommendations! 😀

    • Sure, anytime 😉

      Myself (no trouble with power outages though) use an automotive compressor. It has a huge tank (in comparison with airbrush/hobby compressors), which once full lets me paint for 1 to 2 hours, depending on the pressure I’m working with. Maybe an idea, most have an air pressure regulator and even a water trap build in.
      Anyway,…[Read more]

  • Rafi posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 6 years, 10 months ago

    Hello again, and it’s me with another question~! (^___^)/

    Does anyone know which companies selling all those conversion kits and extra add-ons to existing BANDAI kits are actually licensed by BANDAI? I even see some outrageous huge and/or detailed kits that I think are straight up new builds, but I can’t seem to find any BANDAI endorsement for…[Read more]

    • They nearly always aren’t officially licensed. With that said, official Bandai ones will be from the company “B-Club”, who do resin conversion kits for older models.
      Seeing as these were all in limited print I can’t imagine finding one is easy let alone cheap, so the closest thing you can probably get would be a 3rd party recast of a B-Club.

      • Yeah, I know about B-Club but I was really hoping at least G-System would be licensed; they follow a similar-ish naming convention after all! 😛

        I know Bandai went after TT Hongli for making copies of existing Bandai kits (which they are somehow still making… no idea how…), but does the fact they are not doing anything to G-System mean…[Read more]

        • I think it’s that Bandai doesn’t really mind add on sets. They don’t sell a copy of Bandais work, rather they get people to buy from Bandai more.
          Companies like TT Hongli just steal the models from Bandai and print them for cheaper so there’s definitely a reason for Bandai to stop them.

          • Hmmm, then I guess that’s why Bandai also ignores the unconventional size releases like 1/72, 1/35, etc. If they feel there is nothing wrong with them then it’s fine, I guess, though I wish they would just come out and say so. 😛

  • Rafi posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 6 years, 10 months ago

    Can anyone tell me what scale the Bandai Tamashii Kshatriya is? I wanted the kit in 1/144th and that seems to be the most complete with all the working gimmicks and effect parts, unlike the HGUC version. Hoping it is 1/144th! 😀

    • The “Robot Damashii (Side MS) Kshatriya” is 1/144? Sure? The links you gave me are for the HGUC normal and repaired versions. I was wondering about this one: http://hlj.com/product/BAN984442/Gun

      🙂

    • Yeah, noticed that too, but I hesitated to take that for granted as I see a lot of places measure height after mounting a model on an action stand if the model in question comes with one, and the ‘Robot Damashii (Side MS) Kshatriya’ does come with a stand. Q__Q

    • @domokun329 , cool thx for all the help. 🙂

      Mostly I want a more advanced Kshatriya because the shield/binders don’t split down in the standard HGUC kit like they do on the Repaired and the Bandai Tamashii ones. There is an option from B-Club… but it’s B-club so… Q______Q

    • Nice! Ty! 😀

      I tried to compare sizes when Syd had the kits in his hand, and they seem close enough. Probably some difference in scale, but hey, we see that even in some renewed/redesigned releases (e.g. gerbera tetra) so should be just fine. 🙂

      Thank you!! m(_ _)m

  • HGUC Neue Ziel! (^___^)b

    If they can make the Neo Zeong, this should be a no brainer as well imho. :3

  • Maybe one day we’ll get standard release of the Big Zam in 1/144 or 1/100. It gets far too hard and expensive to find the old resin and limited kits.

  • Rafi posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 6 years, 10 months ago

    Sorry if this has been asked before; I suck at using the search function on this site. 🙁

    New to gunpla here, and I was wondering if the white on all the Gundam kits yellow with age? All the kits I’ve made are unpainted and I only started to worry about this after making my PG Unicorn and then ordering the Full Armor later; is there any chance…[Read more]

    • As far as I can recollect, this hasn’t been asked before and if it is, no worries 😉
      The problem is, yellow is the dominant color in the color spectrum. The plasticisers in plastic will attract sun rays and collect the yellow rays, oddly enough…
      Even indirect sunlight might discolor the plastic overtime. The only option is to use a clear coat.…[Read more]

      • PS, if the Full Armor set is from Bandai too, it’ll surely be the same white. Not sure if it’s from a third party though…..

      • Awesome! Thanks for the advice! 😀

        Just a further query though. I see a lot of different types of coats on the shelves like lacquer, enamel and acrylic coats. If I paint my kit with acrylics, then is there any rule that I must use an acrylic coat and not a lacquer/enamel one?

        Yeah, they are BANDAI kits. Thank you again; was beginning to think I…[Read more]

    • Weird.. I could have sworn I responded to this.. :-S

      Thanks for the response and advice! 😀

      Water Based Acrylic < Alcohol Based (synthetic) Acrylic < Enamel < Lacquers

      ^that right? And reverse also 'ok' for layering. Got it! 🙂

      Anyways, I checked my canned lacquer coat and it says '100% Acrylic' below the line that says it's a lacquer coat……[Read more]

      • You’re welcome 😉

        That is the right order indeed.

        In case of your spray can, that means it’s a synthetic Acrylic paint. This means the binder/vehicle (what the paint is made of) is Acrylic based and the solvent (which keeps the paint liquid) is cellulose (lacquer) based.
        In order to sell the product in some countries, they say it’s Acrylic to…[Read more]

    • @teetee580 , thanks for all the help! 🙂

      Tested part seems more dry than day before. Lets see what happens after a few days more. 😀

      • Glad I could be of some help 😀

        It looks like it is behaving like the Vallejo primer, it then surely will harden in the course of a few days. That’s great to hear, no need for crazy or elaborate solutions which may cause more damage then good.
        Should you need any more advice, please let us know 😉
        Good luck and happy building!

  • Rafi changed their profile picture 6 years, 10 months ago

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