• Leonidas_prime posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 7 years, 2 months ago

    Im about to start hand painting and im gonna use a clear coat spray paint as a primer.Should I use a matte or a gloss?

    • I also use clear coat as primer for my kits and hand paint details. I usually go for matte because I want to take away the plastic shine from my finished kit. I think the slightly textured finish brought about by matte coat also gives better adhesion for my acrylics (Vallejo model and/or game color) But that’s just my personal preference and observation.

    • If I may ask, why not use a normal dedicated primer? They are deigned for that specific job.
      But if I had to choose, I’d go for the gloss one. A matte leaves a “gritty” finish which may come trough in your paint job. On the other hand, a gloss clear will leave the same effect as clear plastic, the surface gets really smooth, so I see no really gain in either way. Maybe a satin clear is the way to go. In terms of surface “smoothness” it’s right in the middle of the two.
      Back in the “old day” I hand painted all my models (except car bodies) with enamels, as this was the only thing available at the time. And I never had to use primer for it. Never chipped nor was it hard to apply (Once getting used to it, but hey, I was 10 years old)
      Later when Tamiya was available over here I used their paint and also for their “Acrylics” I never had to use a primer. Maybe because they are alcohol based…
      So it depends on what type of paint you are going to use, but there are builders out there that even don’t use primer for water based acrylics. I do recommend using a top coat to protect your paint job.
      A primer is only a must when painting a lighter color over a darker plastic. And when spray painting on top of ABS plastic. For anything else you should be fine.
      I hope this answers your question. Good luck and happy building!

    • You really should use actual primer. Clear coat is intended to protect paint, and will not adhere to the bare plastic as well as primer. the only time you will normally be painting on top of clear coat, is when doing panel lines, washes, highlighting, etc. after which you’ll clear coat over that.

      However, if you are set on not using primer, that’s fine. As long as you’ve thoroughly washed the parts, as you should always do if you plan on painting, then you wont have any actual issue with paint adhesion, so you don’t need any kind of priming before hand. This is also true if you’re spray cans as well.

    • In my case, I don’t have enough time to use an actual surface primer and color the whole kit. (I don’t have an airbrush either even if I had the time, so I can only hand brush the colors in.) So I use the clear matte to protect the decals and I use it as “primer” before I paint small details. Since I deal primarily with MGs, the color is almost accurate from a straight build. I just add extra bits of color here and there to add personal touches or to achieve (to some extent) the slight color separation like in the RGs.

      • I would just go with washing the parts, because in the long run, it’s going to save you money as you’re not having to use as much clear coat on the kit. It’ll take more time to complete the kit, but saving money always equates to more stuff lol.

        • Haha! You have a good point there. More stuff is always better. 🙂 Anyway, I only use hardware-sold acrylic sprays on my kits to save. I know many people prefer those made for model kits like Tamiya or Mr. Hobby, but the hardware type I use is good enough for me.