Activity

  • Leena posted an update in the group Group logo of Airbrush and Gunpla!Airbrush and Gunpla! 8 years, 9 months ago

    Hi All , i want to take out the Hand paint on the model kit before and apply the airbrush now, how i can do it ?
    2/ Is acrylic good for airbrush ? which consistency should it like ? milk ? or in middle

    • For removing paint I’ve used water and a nail brush and that’s worked pretty good, but that was for acrylic paint. For other paints you may need more of a solvent.

      Acrylics are great for airbrush. I’ve use Tamiya and Createx mainly, usually thinned with Tamiya thinner. “Like full-fat milk” is usually pretty good, although some paints will spray great when thicker (like cream) and others can work well thinned much further.

      Thin-ness is importantly related to the pressure you use too on the brush. With a thin paint you can lower the pressure and gain more control, and slowly build up colour.

      • Thank you GN !!! Do you think after 3 layer of hand paint , i do few more layer of airbrush will be good ?

        • I’d strip the piece back. The paint from the airbrush doesn’t cover imperfections like hand-paint does, but conforms to the underlying surface.

    • Soak the pieces in Simple Green at least over night and then give them a wipe the next day. If the paint is still a little stubborn after that amount of time, let it sit longer. Acrylic comes off pretty quick but enamel takes much longer. I have left plastic kits in a Simple Green bath for as long as 3 or 4 days with no effects on the plastic and I would imagine you could go longer but hopefully you wouldn’t need to. You may have to use a toothpick or brush to get into tight corners. Isopropyl alcohol will also work for acrylics and lacquer paints and shouldn’t affect the plastic underneath.

      Acrylic paints work great for the airbrush but there are different kinds. Tamiya is great stuff: very forgiving with thinning ratios, great coverage, and easy to clean up. Vallejo is a little trickier to use correctly, but they have a huge color selection and can be cleaned with water.

      • Left a ship I painted some few years ago sit in that thing for some two weeks. No problem there for the plastic. We don’t have Simple Green here so I probably think you were talking about your avarage window washing spray bottle stuff.

        • Oh… I did check before I posted and found this:

          http://australia.simplegreen.com/au_products_details.php?product_id=5&location=household

          I guess it doesn’t have nationwide distribution????

          • “Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner can be used on any washable surface, from floors and walls to laundry and vehicles.” Truly a miraculous substance. You can get a bucket of this and while washing your car you can spray some of this on the walls to get them cleaned too. As a matter of fact, one can dump one’s week old laundry in the same bucket. You could wash shile you wash while you wash! 😀 Second most miraculous thing right after duct tape! 🙂 How they made this thing to be eco friendly and non-toxic at the same time while eating the crap out of everything is a mystery to me. On the other hand, we, the model building community, will get some use out of anything that’s alternative and more importantly cheaper than the brand chemical intended for that use. Future instantly comes to mind.

    • Window washer, an ordinary one without amonia will work for enamels. But you’ll have to leave it to sit in it for a while. Often a day or more depending on the thickness of the paint.
      Don’t just spray over your hand paint job, you’ll have to strip it.

    • I would suggest use of enamel tinner to remove the excessive paint or use zippo fluid. Beware of industrial tinner, those really melt your plastic. I think use zippo fluid is the best because a tin of it usually just cost like USD3, its more easier to find compare to enamel tinner which is more expensive….