UPDATE: I picked up some Tamya putty to fill seem lines and repair the areas that had gouged out plastic. Plus I also picked up a couple of polystyrene sheets because I intend to create armor that actually fills in the hollow skirt armor. Plus, I need to create interiors for the knee armor because of all the damage. I don’t what all that […] View
@teetee580 Tamiya sells clear paints? I plan to (when I eventually get to painting) paint Natakus Dragon Fangs, V fin etc gold and then go over it with clear yellow. I’ve seen some nice results from that. The same clear paint that I was going to hand brush on actually also comes in a spray can?
@Nick I know what you mean ahah. I have a NG 1/100 Duel Gundam and a RG 1/144 Justice, but I’m really focusing on Nataku. I picked up some polystyrene sheets and tamiya white putty yesterday to do repairs and some detailing. I finished scratch building the interior of the front skirt armor and I’m just sanding out the edges to make it all clean.…[Read more]
Hey there Gunpla-ers. I’ve been working on my most ambitious project and probably the most significant one at that. I have loved Gundam since I was a kid. My first kit (and f…
Sounds like it’s taken quite the beating, though we all have that one kit lying around (Hello MG Red Frame). It’s good to see your taking such an ambitious approach to it so I’m eagerly awaiting the result!
@Nick I know what you mean ahah. I have a NG 1/100 Duel Gundam and a RG 1/144 Justice, but I’m really focusing on Nataku. I picked up some polystyrene sheets and tamiya white putty yesterday to do repairs and some detailing. I finished scratch building the interior of the front skirt armor and I’m just sanding out the edges to make it all clean.…[Read more]
UPDATE: I picked up some Tamya putty to fill seem lines and repair the areas that had gouged out plastic. Plus I also picked up a couple of polystyrene sheets because I intend to create armor that actually fills in the hollow skirt armor. Plus, I need to create interiors for the knee armor because of all the damage. I don’t what all that visible.…[Read more]
@Nick Understandable indeed. D dry transfer decals ever have the chance of silvering on you? I would assume no, but I definitely can be wrong ahah. Happy building!
always use waterslides. because waterslides if you were to make a placement mistake just add a little bit of water and you can move it to somewhere else plus i always find that when i do dry transfer when i make a mistake and the decal breaks apart alittle and i try to fix it no matter wht ull still notice that the decal is broken cuz of the gap
I haven’t experienced any silvering on dry transfer, though the cause of silvering (air behind the decal) would just result in the dry decal not being applied properly to begin with.
Hey there Gunpla-ers. I’ve been working on my most ambitious project and probably the most significant one at that. I have loved Gundam since I was a kid. My first kit (and…
Seriously, you’ve been a great help! I’ve had my account here for a little while but never used it. It was seriously only last week that I started posting questions and I’ve already learned so much! I was also wondering if dry transfer decals ever have the chance of silvering like water slide decals sometimes do?
@teetee580 Ahah maybe everyone in on vacation XD. As usual, you comments are substantial and full of useful information. Every painted and decaled Gunpla review I’ve watched almost always had waterslides applied to it. I always wondered why this was the case. I totally forgot about mark setter and softer (and applying decals on curved surfaces in…[Read more]
I’m always glad to help and I have to thank you too. Because of your questions, I can share some of my little wisdom I acquired over the years. I wish you lots of joy building
@teetee580 Dude you are THE MAN. These are seriously perfect and cheap! I also never intended to keep the jewels looking like jewels. I intended to sand them down but by the time I cut the jewels do to size that could maybe fit the piece, it was so tiny that I couldn’t hold them. So when I actually do put the tiny jewel on the sand paper it would…[Read more]
Hey fellow Gunpla-ers, I have another question for you guys. Other than the obvious difference between water slide decals and dry transfer decals, is there a real difference between the quality of both? What do you guys prefer and why? What are your recommendations?
always use waterslides. because waterslides if you were to make a placement mistake just add a little bit of water and you can move it to somewhere else plus i always find that when i do dry transfer when i make a mistake and the decal breaks apart alittle and i try to fix it no matter wht ull still notice that the decal is broken cuz of the gap
Hi again. Or nobody knows, or everybody is on a vacation. LOL.
If they are provided by Bandai (Let’s hope this comment doesn’t get deleted due to copy rights or I get sued by them 😛 ) the quality of them both is top notch.
In my humble opinion water slides are better than decals, of course. And dry transfers over water slides. The water slides…[Read more]
@teetee580 Ahah maybe everyone in on vacation XD. As usual, you comments are substantial and full of useful information. Every painted and decaled Gunpla review I’ve watched almost always had waterslides applied to it. I always wondered why this was the case. I totally forgot about mark setter and softer (and applying decals on curved surfaces in…[Read more]
I’m always glad to help and I have to thank you too. Because of your questions, I can share some of my little wisdom I acquired over the years. I wish you lots of joy building
Building on what others have said, one aspect of rub transfer I prefer over waterslide is that they have less of a shine to them, meaning that they won’t clash with the kit itself if you don’t top coat.
Overall, however, I prefer waterslides as they are a whole lot more forgiving, which I see as a fair trade of for a slightly more visible decal.
I haven’t experienced any silvering on dry transfer, though the cause of silvering (air behind the decal) would just result in the dry decal not being applied properly to begin with.
Hey guys. I’m currently working on the first kit I got back in elementary school (1/100 HG Nataku). I did such a shoddy job back then that I’m motivated to do my best on it. A couple months ago I bought a pack of tiny acrylic jewels for Michael’s (Arts and Crafts store) becuase I want to place them in the V fins center and the other forehead…[Read more]
In terms of cutting jewels, I’m sorry, can’t be of any help. No idea comes to mind.
However, I looked around for you at HLJ and maybe found something interesting for you.
At HLJ, if you go to:
-Sci-Fi
-By “Type” choose: Option Kits
-With “Company” choose: Wave
They have something called “H-Eyes”. These come in round, large and small, and square…[Read more]
@teetee580 Dude you are THE MAN. These are seriously perfect and cheap! I also never intended to keep the jewels looking like jewels. I intended to sand them down but by the time I cut the jewels do to size that could maybe fit the piece, it was so tiny that I couldn’t hold them. So when I actually do put the tiny jewel on the sand paper it would…[Read more]
Again, adding to what teetee580 said, if you want an easy way to make the back of the jewel shiny without painting, you can cut out a piece of a foil sticker sheet (most Bandai kits would have them) and apply it to the back.
It’s the same method used on the MG Nu Gundam Ver.Ka to give the clear green psycho frame a “glowing” effect.
Woop woop! Hi Nu Ver Ka when you guys get back? Too great. Interesting episode forsure with those Yokai kits. Anyone of those kits would be great to win!
Wow 10 years! Man it’s been a while then. I can only imagine how much (hopefully) the kits have improved in that time span, so hopefully the kits would blow your socks off. I’ve never built model planes or cars. actually the way I got my first pair of nippers was when I had a brief stint in making warhammer 40,000 miniatures. I lost interest in…[Read more]
Thanks man that’s a great about of information. I will make sure to follow these directions. I’ve been on a Gunpla hiatus since I thing February or March, but a week ago I watched the hl.tv Gunpla TV videos I missed and it really made me want to work on my kits again. I’m currently working on the first kit I got when I was in 4th of 5th grade…[Read more]
So if I thin the enamel paint with lighter fluid or tamiya enamel thinner, and use lighter fluid or tamiya enamel thinner to clean up any blotches from panel washing panel lines, the sprayed paint on the kit will me fine? I don’t have to worry about the paint being stripped?
so thin out the paint make it runny like water and then wait for it to dry for about 10min then clean it up with lighter just make sure u gloss coat the kit before doing any panel lining as gloss coat makes the lines run more smoothly plus its like an extra protector in case something were to happen but it shouldnt also when ur washing up the…[Read more]
You’re very welcome. Always happy to help.
It’s very nice to know you’ve picked up the hobby again. I did the same a year back after a hiatus of 10 years, and now I’m putting all the techniques learned from building cars (real ones and scale models) and planes into Gunpla.
All thanks to Syd, Ryan, Scott, Brian and all the other staff members of…[Read more]
Sounds like it’s taken quite the beating, though we all have that one kit lying around (Hello MG Red Frame). It’s good to see your taking such an ambitious approach to it so I’m eagerly awaiting the result!
@Nick I know what you mean ahah. I have a NG 1/100 Duel Gundam and a RG 1/144 Justice, but I’m really focusing on Nataku. I picked up some polystyrene sheets and tamiya white putty yesterday to do repairs and some detailing. I finished scratch building the interior of the front skirt armor and I’m just sanding out the edges to make it all clean.…[Read more]