yea i usually paint them up with some clear red if its pink to make it looks more darker and intimidating but ive tried turning a pink saber into a blue one with some metallic blue paint itll look nice too so whtever u want for a color change from red to whtedver color i suggest using metallics but if u wanna make it darker just use some clear red
If you really want a color change, it’s better to cast them in a different color yourself. You can get a resin casting set for rather cheap, as well as any other supplies you need. You can use that to make clear parts in pretty much any color you want. You can always paint them if you prefer, however painting them even with clear paint doesn’t…[Read more]
I think it’s different for everyone. mostly I think it’s just going about your everyday life when you see something and get to thinking, “hey what if?” and from that “what if” you go about your idea. it’s not really something that’s simple to explain cause it really could be anything. if you like a color maybe you just want to work it in then…[Read more]
personally i just throw some paint on a kit and hope it dosen’t look like crap. My Sazabi Ver Ka is the prime example. Im working on a custom color nu-gundam right now and im thinking about a color scheme for my hi-nu with the HWS. I’m thinking about replacing the purple with a burnt orange but im still in the planning process on that one.
Generally I’ll refrain from a full paint job on my Master grades, as the white plastic generally looks better then any white paint, lol. I will paint certain parts to fill in the areas that are the wrong color.
Other then that, custom paint jobs are related to whatever theme I’m going with. So generally, my kits will see mostly military style…[Read more]
for me i just think about the gundam and then look up online at some cool kits and then get an idea out of it usually i keep it in my mind and imagine it if it would look nice
research, for me I look some similar kits with customs paints online then if I’m not satisfied or something pop-up on my mind i will try the color scheme by providing a linework of the kit then photoshop to try the formulated color scheme. If the color scheme is bad on the photoshop, I will not continue the scheme then try another one.
Well after cutting it from the runner, use your cutters to clip off the excess gate. From there you can use a file. always file in one direction, never back and forth, and try to keep the file straight and flat. A few passes should be enough to get the gate down and even with the rest of the part without scraping the rest of the part. from there…[Read more]
As for cleaning the nubs, Slater4u covered this excellent. He tells it how it is. I only suggest finishing sanding with a 1000 grid and use a 800 grid before that and after the 600 grid, since you’re not planning on painting and use Gundam Markers to get rid of the discoloration. A 600 grid still leaves scratch marks.
Also get the 800 and 1000 in…[Read more]
I recommend you do. Anything less then 800 will leave visible scratches, even when painting on the the area’s with Gundam markers. As the paint in the markers is really thin, they won’t fill up scratches. For a really good result I suggest even using a 1000 grid to get it really smooth.
And I forgot to mention in my last reply, for decals, water…[Read more]
Primer is primaly use as a base so that paint sticks better. Other method is thoroughly was your runner using soap. Other than that is that when you prime all the imperfectness of the surface can be clearly seen and easily sand to get the perfect surface and end result.
for a metallic paint you want to lay down a gloss black before the actual metallic color you want, whether or not you use a primer before this I suppose could be considered optional but I’d do it. When working with gloss paints you can’t really do touch up work, it shows too much, and if you’re doing metallic you’re probably not going to want to…[Read more]
At last I completed the MG Nu ver. Ka. Am really happy with how it looks when lit up. It was really challenging to put LEDs in it and I think it looks cooler than the PG…
It looks great!!! You did an awesome job on the LED’s. Not my cup of tea, but nevertheless impressive!
I have to concur with you on the Nu being a great kit. It was my first MG last spring, as I was painting the frame up and building it, I wasn’t impressed as my first Gunpla was a PG. As I began putting the frame on, I began falling in love with…[Read more]
Thanks!After having put all these LEDs am sure I can make the PG Unicorn look more awesome with more LEDs. For the 2nd Nu ver Ka, I’ll use Phosphorescent paint for the psychoframe.
But before starting with the PG, I have 3 kits to deal with-my 1st SD kit, SD Phenex,and my 1st RG kits-RG Rx-78 and the RG Aile Strike.
I wish you a happy New Year…[Read more]
The funnels on the back appear brighter as the plastic on the BTF kit are kind of translucent unlike the Bandai plastic which is opaque. These guys lie when they say it’s the same quality as Bandai.
Now let’s see what I am able to do with the PG Unicorn..
I will soon be doing my first model and was wondering if anybody could tell me if I’m doing it in the right order? Is it assembly > stickers > panel lines > then a flat topcoat. I’ve heard and seen different things about topcoat ruining stickers/ panel lines is this true?
It is one of the orders you could use. Putting a flat coat on top of the panel lines is possible, but not if you plan to use Gundam Markers and a lacquer based clear coat on top of that. The water based ink from the Gundam markers will be dissolved and start to run. Had this problem once in the past. Made a big mess of the piece. Using a acrylic…[Read more]
What he’s referring to, is that some clear coats, namely lacquer and some enamels, will ruin the sticker. Enamel clear coats can cause the ink on the sticker to liquefy, and Lacquer clear coats can actually dissolve the sticker.
It won’t be a problem. But as the description says, use fine coats. I thought the markers where alcohol based, but my Japanese is a little off, can’t read the label. LOL. But I could be mistaken tough.
But anyways, it give you no trouble whatsoever
I think (in my own opinion) for the whole process (not painted)
cleaning numb marks>snap fit>clear coat or gloss coat(optional)>panel line>clear coat>decals/stickers>clear coat>final coating if you want shine effect used gloss or clear, but if you like matt effect used flat coats. Gradually apply 2 to 3 thin coats.
Hi, I just assembled a 1/35 Patlabor Ingram 2 MG kit and it looks cool, but the torso opening mechanism kinda confuses me, mostly because I had to put the lower hatch rely solely on the waist rubber, dunno if I assembled that part right.
I want to cut this part in two in the area depicted in the picture below. But what I’m worried about is that when I do cut it in two will they still stay in place even when I move them around to pose my HGAC 1/144 Wing Gundam
not quite sure I completely understand the question, but if you’re asking if those skirt pieces will fall off the kit when you try posing then no it should be fine, the ball segments should hold it in place just fine still. If you’re asking will they flop around more then that is a possibility which can be fixed by letting a thin layer of glue…[Read more]
I believe standard practice is super glue since it’s thin and dries pretty fast, but in theory any glue should work. all you’re trying to do is add just a bit of thickness to create extra pressure which in turn means more resistance to movement, don’t overdo it though or it won’t be able to move at all or worse yet won’t even fit.
Hey after I thought about cutting the front skirt in two. I went ahead and cut it in two and to my surprise the two halves stayed in place once I put them back on the Gundam
It depends on the kit. For the most part, you should be fine, but with several kits, this will work against you. For example, the Age 3 normal(not sure it it applies to orbital and fortress), cutting that part will cause them to continuously fall out, and not thickening of the part will fix it. The sockets they sit in are shallow, and have large…[Read more]
ok i decaled my hi nu painted it up gloss coated it and then finally i flat coated it and then all of a sudden it started frosting the entire model the decal on the head is completely gone thank god i only painted up the head piece with it help pls im so mad
Did you allow the gloss coat to completely cure before putting on the flat coat? What kind of gloss and flat did you use (laquer, acrylic?) Did you spray outside in the cold?
I had the same problem with my MG Destiny. The flat coat was the worst of the two. It even happened with the gloss acrylic from Tamiya.
I did some searching on the web back then.
For the gloss it’s advised to spray two fogged layers and one final all covering one with a minimum of twelve minutes between coats. But it didn’t work for me. I sprayed…[Read more]
well what happend was i used the tamiya and it frosted up the entire head i used future for gloss coat and that didnt do any dmg but the tamiya destroyed my kit can i ask what kind of flat coat do u use i was thinking maybe i should use modelmaster but better safe than sorry i suppose
In threw the Tamiya in the trash and ordered Alclad II Klear Kote Matte. Didn’t had any trouble with it so far, but only used it ones on a model plane a few weeks back. But keep in mind, this is an enamel based clear, regardless of what the brand name implies.
There are some people that state that the Tamiya matte (X-21 if I recall correctly) is…[Read more]
well from what i read it said on pledge future it is acrylic so dik but about the flat coat is that flat coat the same one u used on ur hi nu also and did u just lightly spray it or how so
mind if I share what I did with my MG Nu Gundam, after painting, I used flat coat first for paint protection. And thats the only thing that I flat coat it. Then panel lining then seal with clear coat (not gloss coat), then decals(water) seal with clear coat then all the way clear coat and it still look flat and I’m satisfied. Also, don’t paint…[Read more]