It depends on what type of acrylic paint you have used. If it’s by Vallejo, then I would strongly recommend not doing it with an enamel wash, as Vallejo paint is water based and really really weak.
However, if you have used an alcohol based acrylic paint, like Tamiya or Mr.Hobby, it will be no problem whatsoever to do an enamel panel wash and use…[Read more]
Panel washes on top of acrylic paint is tricky. I’d first coat the paint with a gloss varnish (Future Finish works well for this) and what I’ve found to be the safest wash is artists oil paint diluted with mineral spirits.
future gloss coat
then afterwards use humbrol paints trust me when i say this because ive had problems doing panel line wash for a while and humbrol works great even if the glosscoat isnt completely cured if its like 70% cured it still works i only know because ive been using tamiya acrylics and there paints are really weak and easily chipped
This is a tricky one.. I have been doing this:
1. Tamiya Acrylics base color,
2. future (pledge) floor polish coat.
3. Sludge wash (distilled water, ground up black charcoal or other powdered color, a few drops of dish soap)
4. After sludge wash dries i wipe most of it off with paper towel and q-tips, just wet the tiniest bit with water..
5.…[Read more]
Oh yea. If this all goes horribly wrong, spray the whole part with Easy Off oven cleaner, and scrub with a toothbrush, then restart, the plastic will be in good shape but all the paint will be GONE.
I’m planing to buy a HG Astray Red Frame gundam but I recently saw review on the HG Astray Red Frame[Flight Unit]. Can somebody till me which should i buy ?
Haven’t build either of them, just the PG and I wished it came with the flight unit. So I would go for the one with the flight unit. If I’m not mistaking, the normal one is the one on the right?
I don’t see much difference, except for the panel lining.
It might be that they are carbon copies of each other and the only difference is the extra…[Read more]
I’ve been looking into my first mg,it’s between the Sinanju Stein or The gundam wing…possibly heavy arms as well but I’m having a hard time deciding. I mostly care about looks and articulation when it comes to a kit. Actually the duel gundam looks pretty cool to me. Please help!
My first MG was the Heavy Arms EW. I love that kit. I think the look is great and the articulation does pretty good. Although I can’t compare it to the others as I haven’t built them
I’ve built the Heavyarms EW and the Sinanju (not stein). While I love them both, I find the EW kits are a great combo of looks and articulation. My Sinanju, while it looks kick ass, it’s huge, took a long time and doesn’t have great articulation. Hands and wrists are an issue, and shoulders don’t move too much. Not sure if the Sinanju Stein has…[Read more]
I’d wait a little bit before getting the Sinanju Stein, it’s a great kit but I think the others may be better for your first MG. The other 3 are all very good kits in terms of articulation but, my favourite is the Duel. At the end of the day the best way to choose is to get whichever you think looks the best.
sinanju steins abit complex if ur a beginner because of it being a ver ka and all. id go for a seed kit like blitz or duel theyre pretty neat in builds and alittle more simpler. wing kits i feel like theyre alittle more delicate so if u want something sturdy as ur first build go for a Gat gundam seed kit
definitely echo-ing the seed MG first suggestion, duel is pretty cool. Sinanju stein is a hell of project (as are all MG sinanju variants) and definitely best done when you have a couple MG’s under your belt IMO. Either way you can’t go wrong with the MG Duel or EW Heavyarms.
So I recently started Gunpla after several years of not building anything, and these were my first two kits after so long. My first one was the Jesta Cannon, which it isn’t my…
Can anyone give me some tips about sharpening gunpla blades? Like the blades on the many exia kits for example, i want to bring them to a nice point and maybe give them an edge as well.
Any help would be appreciated, Please and Thank You.
use sandpaper to sharpen it into the form u want but use a low grit u dont really need something so rough to do it sand the tilted side of the blade but dont do it too quickly u gotta do it slowly so u no how much is gone
Exactly, just like thebanshee said, just some advice to it, lay the sandpaper on a flat surface and go with the “blade” over it. Like one would do with a real knife on a whetstone. Don’t forget making an angle when you reach the bend part towards the point of the blade.
After finishing sanding, you could use some polishing compound/cloth.
Good…[Read more]
I’d suggest using a epoxy putty, like “The Green Stuff”. It is a putty made out of two compounds which you have to mix. It contains a “filler” and “hardener”.
You could apply it directly to the piece, sculpt it to the desired shape and when cured sand it down.
With this method, there is no need for a super glue to adhere it to a part, but can be…[Read more]
I just did some research on this a couple months ago, heres what i found:
I kept seeing this ‘yellow’ putty substance they would fill in the voids in HG kits with, and create simple parts, In Hobby Japan magazine. I google-translated several pages until it became clear it was called ‘polyester putty’ It seems they have Tamiya Polyester Putty,…[Read more]
what does primer do exactly? and do they come pre thinned or do you have to thin it yourself? Also for thinning paint is it normally done with 3:1 ratio?
Actually, primer is something that is supposed to help the paint adhere to whatever surface you are painting. It can come in various colors. The usual colors are black, white, and grey. Vallejo’s line of primers come in many other colors.
When priming a surface, it is ideal to let the primer cure for several hours (12-24 is ideal) before adding…[Read more]
Please take note that some automotive primers will NOT adhere to plastics, especially ABS!
A good indication for this, if the same brand sell special primer for plastics!
And Vallejo primers can be very tricky to work with….
But to answer your question, most primers on’t need to be diluted. But this depends on the brand and type you use.
As for…[Read more]
If you want to panel line a painted kit is it necessary to apply a topcoat over the paint and then add the panel lines or can I just fill the panel lines directly on the paint.
p.s. Been using regular tamiya spraycans for painting and will be using the gundam panelwash marker.
If the paint went on really smooth, you could do the panel lining on top of the paint, since the Tamiya spray cans are lacquer based and the Gundam Markers are water based. If the paint is a bit grainy, you could have some difficulties removing the excess.
When planning on doing a top coat over the panel lines and paint job, make sure the panel…[Read more]
maybe you should use lighter fluid as thinner and removing excess panel wash because its more safer than thinner
It depends on what type of acrylic paint you have used. If it’s by Vallejo, then I would strongly recommend not doing it with an enamel wash, as Vallejo paint is water based and really really weak.
However, if you have used an alcohol based acrylic paint, like Tamiya or Mr.Hobby, it will be no problem whatsoever to do an enamel panel wash and use…[Read more]
Panel washes on top of acrylic paint is tricky. I’d first coat the paint with a gloss varnish (Future Finish works well for this) and what I’ve found to be the safest wash is artists oil paint diluted with mineral spirits.
future gloss coat
then afterwards use humbrol paints trust me when i say this because ive had problems doing panel line wash for a while and humbrol works great even if the glosscoat isnt completely cured if its like 70% cured it still works i only know because ive been using tamiya acrylics and there paints are really weak and easily chipped
This is a tricky one.. I have been doing this:
1. Tamiya Acrylics base color,
2. future (pledge) floor polish coat.
3. Sludge wash (distilled water, ground up black charcoal or other powdered color, a few drops of dish soap)
4. After sludge wash dries i wipe most of it off with paper towel and q-tips, just wet the tiniest bit with water..
5.…[Read more]
Oh yea. If this all goes horribly wrong, spray the whole part with Easy Off oven cleaner, and scrub with a toothbrush, then restart, the plastic will be in good shape but all the paint will be GONE.