Aug 21
Robodaz

Future Boy Conan: Gigant – 1/700 by Aoshima, available at HobbyLink Japan

In some respects, I was not expecting much from this build, as it hardly felt like a proper kit – so small, so few parts – but in the end, I found myself enjoying this kit more than many more complex builds I have done in recent months: and it all comes down to the details which worried me so much on opening.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

A pretty straightforward and direct build thus far, but at each step I had been concerned with the panel lines, in as much as on such a small kit they might seem as if they were not so much panel breaks as chasms. However, as I reached the point of painting, I decided that the way to go would be to emphasize the lines, rather than try to minimize them. After all, I doubt if anyone would complain about a few panels when considering the basic aerodynamics of a flying house…

Yet, the question remained how to do this. Over the years, I have lined models in a variety of ways – from the simple Gundam Markers, to washes and panel lining inks. However, after buying a new airbrush, I have been growing more and more interested in back-lined layering and decided to give it a go.

For those who do not know, the technique involves applying dark lines to a white/light grey undercoated model before building up the base coat using an airbrush as a weak (in this case, 60% thinner to 40% paint) in a series of layers so that the dark line markings are still visible through the paint.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Looked a little odd at this stage, to be sure, and I was half convinced I had made terrible mistake. However…

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Once the first coat was down, it was clear how effective the look is. However…

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Once I added weathering and toning washed to the grey to acheive the finished effect, the pre-lining really showed its quality. It is such a simple effect, and easily managed. It amazes me that I had not made use of it before.

Not an earth-shattering matter, I know, but it certainly makes the difference on a kit which otherwise might have seemed to lack definition.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

A lovely little kit of one of the seminal mechanical designs of the golden age of anime.

 

Comments

  1. Nice build, looking great!

  2. Excellent paint job. Truly excellent, you should be proud of it

    • Thank you. I’ll admit this is the first time I’ve used weathering compounds (the new(ish) Tamiya set one), and I was very pleased with the outcome.

  3. Impressive model. I can see a couple of different pens in the pictures, exactly what did you use for the panel lines before applying the layers? I’ve used the Gundam Markers but never had a good result. The best luck i’ve had has been with the Staedtler Pigment Liners or enamel washes.

    • Thank you!
      I use all the Bandai fine/medium liners, largely as I could not find an affordable supplier of the Staedtler pens locally.
      I had a great deal of trouble with the fine Gundam markers at first, when I was attempting to go directly over acrylic paint, even when fully dried. These days, if I know I will be lining over paint – as opposed to pre-lining – I’ll dust the kit with a fine layer of matt coat, and give it a couple of hours to dry off. After that, I have few issues (though, if I do, I find just dipping the tip in X-20 thinner restores it).

      I do wish I could find cheaper Staedtler liners though. Much more consistent all round.

      • Thanks that’s a great tip! I will give it a try.

        Where abouts are you based? Until recently i worked for a company that exclusively sold a six pack of Staedlter Pigment Liners (or pigges as i called them)sizes 0.05 – 0.8 for only £7.95. Best price you’ll find.

        • I’m based out of North Japan, and the cost of the Staedlter pens here is mad. I pay about 70p for a gundam marker from the local toy shop, but a good quality Staedlter pen costs me over 5 quid.

  4. Thanks that’s a great tip! I will give it a try.

    Where abouts are you based? Until recently i worked for a company that exclusively sold a six pack of Staedlter Pigment Liners (or pigges as i called them)sizes 0.05 – 0.8 for only £7.95. Best price you’ll find.

  5. The final effect of those washes looks amazing.
    Can you give more details on how you did the different colour washes to get to that final look?
    Thanks

    • Thank you. If I do say so, it worked out very well, even though it was a snap to do.

      The base colour was Tamiya XF-19, Sky Grey.
      To get the colour of worn metal, I airbrushed all over with Citadel Gryphonne Sepia wash, with just a drop of flat back.
      To get the streaking, I left the kit standing nose up, so that the wash flowed straight back, to give the effect of air passage. A bit tedious for an hour or so, as I had to absorb the pools that inevitably developed on the trailing edges and so on.
      Once it was set, I took a Citadel Snakebite Leather, mixed half and half with Sunburst yellow and gave the lot a general drybrush.
      Then the same with Skull white, very gently over the harder edges.
      Finally, I mixed up flat black in the airbrush (20% paint to 80% X20 thinner) in the airbrush and gave a dusting to the leading edges, engine ports and hard lines, where the pre-shading had been muted.

      What I wish I had done, before washing is to have painted in some obviously lighter and darker panels into the whole, to give the effect of having been replaced at some point with bodged materials.

Leave a reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *